Home » travel

Tag: travel

Some wines from Brescia and Bergamo, Lombardy, Italy

One reason that Italian wines are a constant source of interest for wine enthusiasts1 is that, pretty much no matter how long you’ve been studying wine, you’ll always keep coming across new regions and new grapes you’ve not heard of previously. This can happen when visiting a supermarket, or when travelling — particularly in regions not known for their wine.

For me, at least, Lombardy is such a region. I’m not sure why. It does grow quite a bit of wine, and some regions, such as Valtellina, are not particularly obscure. I guess it lacks any ‘big names’ — there is no village with the stature or recognition of Barolo or Brunello here. But — thankfully — that’s not all there is to wine.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit Brescia and Bergamo a number of times, and have enjoyed finding out about the wines grown in their respective regions. With the exception of Franciacorta sparkling wine, which I won’t cover here, neither are terribly well known outside the region, but both are — to my mind — well worth exploring. I’ll quickly run through a few of the regions I’ve come across so far, and give some details of the wines I’ve tried.

Brescia

Pusterla vineyard, Brescia.

Brescia’s vineyards sit between the mountains and the plain, with Alpine breezes on one side and warm Po Valley sunshine on the other. These are the same hills that give the world Franciacorta sparkling wine, but the still wines deserve a little attention too. Curtefranca DOC covers much of the same ground, and the soils are a patchwork — limestone and marl here, glacial debris there — all of which helps keep the wines lively. The reds lean on Bordeaux grapes like ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ and ‘Merlot’, often with an Italian twist from ‘Nebbiolo’ or ‘Barbera’, while the whites are typically ‘Chardonnay’ and ‘Pinot bianco’.

One curiosity worth mentioning is the Pusterla vineyard, Europe’s largest urban vineyard, which clings to the slopes just below Brescia’s castle. This sun-exposed hillside is the top of a stratified limestone spur, and is known for its marl and flint nodules, also called medolo. First planted in 1037 by the royal monastery of Santa Giulia, the site has undergone many changes of ownership over the centuries and has been abandoned at various points. Despite its difficult history, it is now thriving again under the care of and Emanuele Rabotti (Monte Rossa winery, Franciacorta). This unique vineyard is home to a unique grape — ‘Invernenga’, a rare late-ripening white with unusually thick, polyphenol-rich 🦜 skins. Once grown mostly for passito, it now makes dry whites with a pleasantly savoury edge — a little slice of vineyard history hidden in the city.

Nike, Brescia Roman Temple

If you follow the vines south, you come to Montenetto di Brescia IGT, centred on Monte Netto, a clay-rich rise out of the plain. Viticulture here likely started with the Romans, once the marshy soils had been drained, but the first definite reference to wine growing in the region was in the sixteenth century, with Le dieci giornate della vera agricoltura e dei piaceri della villa by Agostino Gallo, Renaissance agronomist, which mentions ‘Marzemino’ in particular, now grown as Capriano del Colle DOC Marzemino. The IGT rules are broad, but the standouts are ‘Trebbiano’ in its various guises and ‘Marzemino’, alongside ‘Barbera’, ‘Sangiovese’, ‘Merlot’, and ‘Chardonnay’. The whites tend to be floral and lightly fruity, while the reds are fresh and harmonious — the sort of bottles made for local trattoria cooking rather than long-term cellaring.

Curtefranca DOC

2020 Ferghettina Curtefranca
Colour: Medium(+) purple

Nose: medium(-) intensity, tertiary, developing. Redcurrant, cassis, strawberry, pomegranate, cherry syrup. Blueberry. Mushroom, barnyard, forest floor, cough syrup. Cedar, sweet spice.

Palate: dry, medium(+) acidity, medium tannins, medium alcohol (13,5%), medium bodied. Medium length finish, medium intensity. Redcurrant, cassis, strawberry, pomegranate, cherry syrup. Blueberry. Mushroom, barnyard, forest floor, cough syrup. Cedar, sweet spice. 

Conclusions: very good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. 

Seal: cork

Blend: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera – I am not sure if this varies somewhat from year to year
Tasted 17/2/2023

2022 Ferghettina Curtefranca
Colour: medium (+) purple
Nose: medium(-) intensity, secondary, youthful. Red and black plum, blackcurrant, fruiti di bosco jam, blueberry. Smoke, bergamot. Charred oak. 
Palate: dry, medium acidity, medium tannins, medium alcohol (13,5%), medium bodied. Medium intensity, medium length finish. Red and black plum, blackcurrant, fruiti di bosco jam, blueberry. Smoke, bergamot. Charred oak. 
Conclusions: good — but not as interesting as I remember from last time. P&P (pop&pour), not decanted.
Half bottle at Ma!Osteria Brescia
Tasted 23/8/2025

2019 Ca’ del Bosco ‘Corte del Lupo’ Curtefranca
Colour: medium(+) ruby
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Pomegranate (esp. on first opening), red cherry, blueberry. Strawberries stewed in balsamic vinegar. Cedar, cinnamon, maybe vanilla. Dried herbs. Touch of earthiness. Pomegranate seemed most dominant when first opened, but blueberry came to the fore with air.
Palate: dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) tannins, medium alcohol (13%), medium bodied. Medium intensity, medium(+) length finish. Pomegranate (esp. on first opening), red cherry, blueberry. Strawberries stewed in balsamic vinegar. Cedar, cinnamon, maybe vanilla. Dried herbs. Touch of earthiness.
Conclusions: very good. Quite lithe and elegant, refined but with an earthy savouriness. Can drink now, but likely suited to further ageing. Just as good on day 2, after being left open overnight.
Seal: natural cork
49% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 11% Carménère
Tasted 15/4/2023

2018 Coop Vitivinicola Cellatica Gussago Curtefranca Rosso
Colour: medium garnet
Nose: medium(+) intensity, tertiary, developing. Red and black plum, plum jam, bramble, cassis. Tamarillo. Black pepper, tomato stem. Some savoury character and maybe the start of forest floor character.
Palate: dry, medium acidity, medium(+) tannins, medium alcohol (13%), medium bodied. Medium intensity, short finish. Red and black plum, plum jam, bramble, cassis. Tamarillo. Black pepper, tomato stem. Some savoury character and maybe the start of forest floor character.
Conclusions: good — let down slightly by the short finish. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. P&P (pop&pour), not decanted.
Seal: DIAM2 cork
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasted 21/5/2024

2015 Ricci Curbastro ‘Vigna Santella del Gröm’ Curtefranca
Colour: medium(+) ruby
Nose: medium(+) intensity, secondary, youthful. Strawberry, redcurrant, red and black plum. Blackcurrant jelly? Strawberry jam? Blueberry. White pepper, cedar, nutmeg, bread dough. Smoke and maybe bergamot. 
Palate: dry, medium(+) tannins (fine grained, silky, but drying), medium acidity, medium alcohol (12,5%), medium(-) bodied. Strawberry, redcurrant, red and black plum. Blackcurrant jelly? Blueberry. White pepper, cedar, nutmeg. Cough syrup/medicinal. Bergamot?
Conclusions: very good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. Quite fresh and young at eight years of age. Relatively light and dominated by red fruit. The tannins and acidity work well with food. Very drinkable.
Blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, and Barbera.
Tasted 7/11/2023

2021 Ferghettina Curtefranca Bianco
Colour: pale lemon-green
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Green apple, lemon, lemon peel. Pineapple. Nectarine. Honey. White flowers. Lees character: biscuit and cream.
Palate: dry, medium(+) acidity, medium alcohol (12,5%), medium(-) bodied. Medium intensity, medium long finish. Green apple, lemon, lemon peel. Pineapple. Nectarine. Honey. White flowers. Lees character: biscuit and cream. Green apple very dominant when first opened, but improves with air.
Conclusions: good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. Pretty good value at €9.50!
Seal: technical cork.
DAY2: left in fridge overnight. Green apple and nectarine still prominent, but now maybe with wet stone and saline notes.
80% Chardonnay 20% Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco)
Tasted 6/6/2023

Montenetto di Brescia IGT

2021 Barone Pizzini Montenetto di Brescia IGT
Colour: pale lemon yellow
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Lemon, lemon peel. Apple — Granny Smith, Russet. White flowers. Cream?
Palate: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol (13%), medium bodied. Medium intensity, medium length finish. Lemon, lemon peel. Apple — Granny Smith, Russet. White flowers. Cream?
Conclusions: good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. P&P (pop&pour), not decanted.
Seal: DIAM5 technical cork
Blend of Trebbiano & Chardonnay
Tasted 18/8/2024

Vino di Tavola (Pusterla vineyard, Brescia)

2020 Monte Rossa Pusterla Vino Bianco
Colour: medium gold
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Dried apricot, lemon, lemon peel, underripe pineapple. Heritage apples. Honeyed. Almonds? Ginger? Wet stone, saline. Hay.
Palate: dry, medium(+) acidity, medium alcohol (12%), medium(-) bodied. Dried apricot, lemon, lemon peel, underripe pineapple, kiwifruit. Heritage apples. Honeyed. Ginger? Wet stone, saline.
Conclusions: very good. I wasn’t expecting much from this for whatever reason — I worried it might just be a novelty — but it’s a genuinely interesting, complex, and unusual wine. Hard to pin down the flavours and aromas precisely. 100% late harvest Invernenga, an autochthonous grape cultivar from Brescia, Lombardy, Italy, and grown in a vineyard within the castle grounds of Brescia — said to be the largest urban vineyard in Europe. P&P (pop&pour), not decanted.
Seal: screwcap.
Tasted 2/5/2024

Bergamo

Bergamo and the Bergamo hills, from  la Torre Civica

Bergamo also boasts a long relationship with the vine. The Romans planted vineyards around Scanzorosciate, and the region was well regarded enough for its wine that the village of San Lorenzo had a temple to Bacchus. The Lombard invasions set viticulture back, but monasteries kept the culture of the vines alive, and by the fifteenth century Bergamo’s wines were pouring into Milan. Like elsewhere, phylloxera caused devastation, but early twentieth-century replantings set the stage for the region’s modern revival.

The creation of the Valcalepio DOC in 1976 was a key moment for the modern history of wine growing in Bergamo. The DOC covers the hills between the Orobic Alps, Lake Iseo, and Monte Canto. The reds are usually Bordeaux blends — a bold choice at the time — ‘Merlot’ with ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’, occasionally scented with the local ‘Moscato di Scanzo’. The whites draw on ‘Chardonnay’, ‘Pinot bianco’, and ‘Pinot grigio’. They’re good food wines, often with a savoury edge that suits the region’s hearty cooking. In 1993, a Valcalepio rosso riserva DOC was created, allowing for the production of longer-aged wines. Also worth noting: a passito made from ‘Moscato di Scanzo’, made locally since at least 1347, is said to have been a favourite of Catherine the Great. (I’ve yet to try this myself… even in Italy, the wines from here can be a bit tricky to find!)

Terre del Colleoni DOC, a newer denomination (2011), takes in a broader cast of grapes: ‘Schiava’, ‘Marzemino’, ‘Franconia’, and the rare ‘Incrocio Terzi’, along with ‘Manzoni bianco’. These wines tend to be fruit-forward and easy to enjoy, from pale, cherry-coloured reds to aromatic whites with citrus and stone-fruit lift. To my mind, it’s when you add in the tiny appellations such as Moscato di Scanzo DOCG — a sweet red made from the native grape of the same name — that Bergamo’s picture comes fully into focus, making it far more interesting than its low profile might suggest.

And that, really, is the point: neither Brescia nor Bergamo may be household names in the wine world, but both reward a little curiosity — and a bottle or two shared2 at the table.

Valcalepio DOC

2020 Locatelli Caffi Valcalepio
Colour: medium (-) purple
Nose: medium (-) intensity, secondary, youthful. Cassis, red plum, red cherry, pomegranate. Cola. Blackcurrant leaf, maybe green capsicum? Sweet spice. Earthy, forest floor
Palate: dry, medium acidity, medium tannins, medium alcohol)13%), medium bodied. Medium (-) intensity , medium(-) length finish. Cassis, red plum, red cherry, pomegranate. Cola. Blackcurrant leaf, maybe green capsicum? Sweet spice. Earthy, forest floor
Conclusions: good. Can drink now but suited to further ageing
Seal cork. Merlot – Cabernet blend.
Notes from half bottle at Da Ornella, Bergamo
Tasted 2/6/2023

2023 Locatelli Caffi Valcalepio
Colour: medium ruby
Nose: medium(-) intensity, secondary, youthful. Red plum, blackcurrant. Strawberry, redcurrant. Gooseberry, green capsicum. Sweet spice. 
Palate: dry, medium(-) tannins, medium alcohol (13,5%), medium acidity, medium bodied. Red plum, blackcurrant. redcurrant. Gooseberry, green capsicum. Sweet spice. 
Conclusions: good – just a little short on the palate. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing. P&P (pop&pour), not decanted. 
Half bottle at Trattoria da Ornella, Bergamo.
Tasted 26/8/2025

2018 La Collina ‘Bruno’ Valcalepio Rosso
Colour: medium(-) ruby
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Fruits of the forest: strawberry, blueberries, blackberry, blackcurrant, redcurrant. Hint of forest floor? With air, dried orange peel. Vanilla, cedar.
Palate: dry, medium(-) acidity, medium(-) tannins (v.smooth & fine grained), medium alcohol (13,5%), medium(-) bodied. Medium intensity, medium length finish. Fruits of the forest: strawberry, blueberries, blackberry, blackcurrant, redcurrant. Hint of forest floor? With air, dried orange peel. Vanilla, cedar.
Conclusions: very good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing.
Seal: cork
Notes from half bottle at La Ciotola Restaurant, Bergamo
Tasted 3/6/2023

2018 Tenuta Castello di Grumello Valcalepio
Colour: medium ruby
Nose: medium intensity, secondary, youthful. Red cherry, red and black plum, cassis. Juniper berry. Dried red fruit leather, strawberry. Rosemary? Cedar, bitter cocoa. Earthy and leathery in the empty glass.
Palate: dry, medium(-) tannins, medium(+) acidity, high alcohol (14%), medium bodied. Medium intensity, medium length finish. Red cherry, red and black plum, cassis. Juniper berry. Dried red fruit leather, strawberry. Tamarillo, cranberry. Rosemary? Cedar, bitter cocoa. Earthy and leathery.
Conclusions: very good. Can drink now, but suited to further ageing.
Seal: DIAM5 cork 
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasted 13/11/2023

Terre del Colleoni

2021 Villa Domizia Punto ‘Uno Manzoni’ Terre del Colleoni Bianco
Passionfruit, pineapple, apricot, lemon curd. Lots of fresh tropical fruit backed up by fresh citrusy acidity. Wet stones. Quite fresh and refreshing.
No detailed notes since by the glass at a restaurant. Very good!
By the glass at La Bottega Del Gusto, Bergamo
Tasted 3/6/2023

and finally… a Franciacorta

NV Facchetti Franciacorta Franciacorta Nature
Colour: pale lemon yellow
Nose: medium(-) intensity, youthful, secondary. Lemon, lemon peel, green apple. Hint of beeswax and lanolin. Cream. 
Palate: medium(+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium bodied, delicate mousse. Medium intensity, medium length finish. Lemon, lemon peel, green apple. Hint of beeswax and lanolin. Cream. Wet stone, hint of salinity. 
Conclusions: very good! Can drink now, but likely suited to further ageing. 
By the glass.
Tasted 23/8/2025

References

Brescia – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/provincia/brescia/
Vigneto Pusterla – the terroir. https://www.vignetopusterla.com/il-terroir/
“The largest urban vineyard in Europe is in Brescia: showcasing a rare grape”, Gambrro Rosso. https://www.gamberorossointernational.com/news/the-largest-urban-vineyard-in-europe-is-in-brescia-showcasing-a-rare-grape/
Curtefranca DOC – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/denominazioni/curtefranca-doc/
Montenetto di Brescia – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/denominazioni/montenetto-di-brescia-igt/
Consorzio Montenetto. https://consorziomontenetto.it/index.php/montenetto/
Bergamo – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/provincia/bergamo/
Valcalepio DOC – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/denominazioni/valcalepio-doc/
Valcalepio DOC – Consorzio Tutela Valcalepio. https://www.valcalepio.org/vini-tutelati/valcalepio-doc/
Moscato di Scanso – A Sprinkle of Italy. https://asprinkleofitaly.com/moscato-di-scanzo-docg/
Terre del Colleoni DOC – Quattrocalici. https://www.quattrocalici.it/denominazioni/terre-del-colleoni-o-colleoni-doc/

  1. I don’t really like the term ‘wine enthusiast’, perhaps due to a hazy memory of the joke about axe wielding maniacs preferring to be called axe enthusiasts. Nothing quite captures what I want to say as well as the French phrase ‘amateur de vin’. Unfortunately, the word amateur has become rather devalued in English — it is rather sad that doing something simply for the love of it is seen as a negative! ↩︎
  2. Well, I’ll try. Sharing is difficult, especially with good wine. ↩︎

St Anthony’s Way

St.-Antonius-Weg
St Michael Eppan
iPhone SE2, built-in 3.99 mm lens, 1/800 sec, f/1.8, ISO 20.

St Anthony’s Way, Autumn. Two tiny terriers snarl ferociously at me when I stop to take the photo, defending their territory against all-comers. It’s good there’s a sturdy fence between us, or they’d tear me to shreds. Or I’d tred on them without noticing.

Girraween National Park, Drought, 5 January 2020

Drought, creek bed, Girraween National Park, 5 January 2020
Pentax K-x, Tamron 10-24mm lens @ 10mm, 1/60 sec, f/8.0, ISO 100. HDR created using Lightroom.
Creekside, drought, Girraween National Park, 5 January 2020
Pentax K-x, Tamron 10-24mm lens @ 10mm, 1/50 sec, f/8.0, ISO 100. HDR created using Lightroom.
Creek bed, drought, Girraween National Park, 5 January 2020
Pentax K-x, Tamron 10-24mm lens @ 17mm, 1/160 sec, f/7.1, ISO 100. HDR created using Lightroom.
Water and granite, drought, Girraween National Park, 5 January 2020
Pentax K-x, Sigma 18-125 mm lens @ 40mm, 1/100 sec, f/8.0, ISO 500, Exposure bias -0.3.

Girraween National Park, near Ballandean, Granite Belt, Queensland, Australia. An early morning walk from 6am-7:30am, before the punishing heat of the drought made walking unpleasant.

A wine lover’s guide to Stanthorpe, Ballandean, and the Granite Belt

Queensland is not the first destination that would come to mind for food and wine tourism. However, one part of the state is slowly gaining a reputation for producing high quality wines. The Granite Belt has the advantage of sandy, granitic soils and a relatively high altitude that provides it with a cooler climate than its latitude would suggest.

In recent years, an increasing number of small to medium sized producers have started to produce some exceptional wines, particularly as the styles and cultivars that suit the region are beginning to be determined. Equally, other producers have experimented with unusual or lesser known cultivars as part of the “Strange Birds” scheme, which has been organised by the local tourism authority. Many of these wines are well worth trying.

In my opinion, the main attraction for visitors in the area is the numerous cellar doors. Unusually for a wine region, there is little outstanding in the way of restaurants or, except for a few local producers, food shops. However, this is more than made up for by the many cellar doors. I would recommend the region as a good destination for a short break for those living in or visiting south-east Queensland.

Granite Belt scene, near Stanthorpe, 31st July 2019
Pentax K-x, 18-125mm lens @ 110mm, 1/200 sec, f/6.3, ISO 160

Wineries

There are a lot of wineries locally, and consequently I have only listed a small number of them. I have limited myself to wineries I have visited and can recommend, but there are others I am not familiar with that are also no doubt excellent.

Ballandean and surrounds

  • Ballandean Estate, 54 Sundown Rd, Ballandean, Qld 4382. The oldest and largest winery in the district, which was established in 1932. They have a large range of wines, including some easy-drinking wines that may not interest wine enthusiasts, as well as more serious, age-worthy wines. They also have the oldest plantings of Shiraz in the region. The Opera Block Shiraz, “Messing About” Shiraz Viognier, and Saperavi are always excellent quality. Open 9am-5pm daily, except Good Friday and Christmas day.
  • Pyramids Road Wines, 25 Wyberba Lane (off Pyramids Road), Wyberba Qld 4382. An excellent small producer who make distinctive wines. In particular, their Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot are worth trying, and Bernie’s Blend is generally excellent (the exact blend varies from year to year). Open 10am-4:30pm daily.
  • Bungawarra Wines, 181 Bents Rd, Ballandean, Qld 4382. Another excellent small producer, with one of the oldest vineyards in the region, producing nuanced, age-worthy wines. Open 10am-4pm daily.
  • Bent Road Wine/La Petite Mort, 535 Bents Road, Ballandean, Qld 4382. One of the few organic producers in the region (but note they’re not certified), they produce interesting, distinctive wines that go well with food. They make excellent Tempranillo and Marsanne. They are also experimenting with extended maceration for both red and amber/orange wines, and use of Georgian kvevri for many of their fermentations. Open by appointment only.
  • Wild Soul Wines, Horans Gorge Road, Glen Aplin, Qld 4381. A tiny local producer who make wine from their 1 ha organic vineyard, which is planted with Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and some Merlot. The wines are light to medium bodied compared with other local wineries, but age well. Open 10am-4pm on weekends and public holidays (i.e., bank holidays), but it’s worth phoning in advance (+61 7 4683 4201) to confirm that they are open.

Stanthorpe and surrounds

  • Ridgemill Estate, 218 Donges Road, Severnlea, Qld 4380. Producer of perhaps one of the best Chardonnays in the region–in my opinion, anyway. They are also one of two local wineries to produce a Riesling. The Granite Belt would seem an ideal region for Riesling given its cool climate and granite soils, but unfortunately it produces vanishingly low yields when grown here. The resultant wine is lovely, nonetheless. They also have accommodation in small cabins near to the vineyard. Open 10am-5pm Monday-Saturday, and 10am-3pm Sunday.
  • Robert Channon Wines, 32 Bradley Lane, Stanthorpe, Qld 4380. Famous for their Verdelho—which they make dry, sweet, and sparking versions. They are also one of the only producers in the region to make a decent Pinot Noir. Open 10am-5pm on weekends, and11am-4pm on Friday, Monday, and Tuesday.
  • Severn Brae Estate, 49 Back Creek Road, Severnlea, Qld 4352. A good small producer, who also makes his own cheese and preserves. Open 10am-5pm daily.
  • Casley Mount Hutton, 94 Mount Hutton Road, Greenlands, Stanthorpe, QLD 4380 (GPS: 28.6664 S 151.8045 E). This winery is a bit off the beaten track—I got thoroughly lost on my visit there—but worth the detour. As well as excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, they make a complex, age-worthy Chenin Blanc—a rarity in Australia. Another rarity is that they offer a wide range of back vintages at fairly reasonable prices. Open 9:30am-4:30pm Friday-Monday, including public holidays and school holidays
  • Boireann Winery, 26 Donnellys Castle Road, The Summit, Qld 4377. One of the most widely known Granite Belt estates, who produce a range of complex, age-worthy red wines. I haven’t yet visited them since they changed ownership, but I presume the new owners are continuing in the footsteps of the winery’s founders. Open 10am-4pm Friday-Monday.
  • Heritage Estate, New England Highway, Thulimbah, Qld 4376 or 747 Granite Belt Drive, Cottonvale, Qld 4375. A small winery that is known for its excellent Chardonnay. They also make an excellent Marsanne, as well as some very good red wines. I haven’t visited since the change of ownership, but they have retained the same winemaker, and the original owners have stayed on as advisors. The Thulimbah cellar door is open 10am-4pm every day, and the Cottonvale cellar door (which is attached to the winery) is open 10am-4pm Monday-Friday, and 9am-5pm on weekends.

Restaurants and cafés

Many wineries, including Ballandean Estate and Robert Channon Wines, have restaurants or cafés as part of their cellar door. I haven’t yet visited any of these, so am reluctant to make recommendations.

  • Hanasuka, 13 Davadi St, Stanthorpe, Qld 4380. An excellent small Japanese restaurant, serving a range of simple but delicious Japanese dishes; opened in mid-2019. Open 10:30am-3pm & 5pm-8pm Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, and 11am-3pm & 5pm-8pm Saturday and Sunday. Closed Tuesday.
  • Sutton’s Juice Factory Cidery & Café, 10 Halloran Drive, Thulimbah, Qld 4376. This local orchard has a very good café and known for its excellent (but expensive) apple pie. It also produces ciders, juices, and preserves, and offers pick-your-own apples, see the entry under ‘Other food and wine attractions’. Open 9:30am-4:10pm daily.
  • Aussie Beef Steakhouse, 1 High St, Stanthorpe, Qld 4380. A decent small restaurant attached to a local motel. They serve a selection of local wines. Open 6pm-late Tuesday-Friday, 5:30pm-late Saturday, 7:30am-9am Sunday; table reservations +61 7 4681 1533.
  • Vixen’s Bakery Cafe, 23 Maryland Street, Stanthorpe, Qld 4380. A good small bakery and café that’s great for a quick breakfast, lunch, or coffee. Open 7:30am-4:30pm Monday-Friday, and 7:30am-1pm Saturday.

Other food and wine attractions

Regular visitors may remember Vincenzo’s at the Big Apple as being an excellent, well stocked delicatessen. Sadly, they closed in 2018.

  • Heavenly Chocolates, Pyramids Road, Wyberba, Qld 4382. A small, local chocolate producer that provides an excellent stop off on the way to Girraween National Park. Their hot chocolates are also excellent. Open 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, as well as on public holidays and school holidays.
  • Sutton’s Juice Factory Cidery & Café, 10 Halloran Drive, Thulimbah, Qld 4376. A local orchard that produces excellent ciders, apple juices, and preserves. It is also possible to pick your own apples during the harvest period, and they have a wide range of heritage varieties. The café is also very good—see the entry under ‘Restaurants and Cafés’. Open 9:30am-4:10pm daily.
  • Stanthorpe Cheese and Jersey Girls Café, 4 Duncan Lane, Thulimbah, Qld 4376. A small cheesemaker who produce some excellent (if expensive) cheese from their own herd of Jersey cattle.
  • Severn Brae Estate, 49 Back Creek Road, Severnlea, Qld 4352. A local winemaker who also produces his own cheese and preserves. Open daily 10am-5pm.

Other attractions

  • Stanthorpe Museum, 12 High Street, Stanthorpe, Qld 4380. An excellent small museum housed in a number of historic buildings that have been moved to the site. The museum chronicles the history of the area, particularly that of the early pioneers. There is also an interesting (but small) display of Aboriginal artefacts. While the museum doesn’t focus on the wine industry, an exhibit on the Italian heritage of the region contains some history of winegrowing in the area. Open 10am-4pm Wednesday-Friday, 1pm-5pm Saturday, and 9am-1pm Sunday; Admission $7.
  • Girraween National Park. A beautiful national park that’s a great place to see some grey kangaroos, and to go for either a short, easy walk—or to try walking all the way to the top of the Pyramid for the views. “Girraween” means “place of flowers”, a name that it more than lives up to during the spring. Girraween National Park is a short drive from Ballandean and is on the same road as Pyramids Roads Wines and Heavenly Chocolates.
  • Bald Rock National Park. This is just across the state border from Girraween National Park and is contiguous with it. Consequently, it’s quite a drive to get there, but well worth it. The view from the top of Bald Rock is worth the walk. Parking is $8 per vehicle.
  • Note that national parks can be closed due to bad weather or bushfire danger—it’s worth checking online prior to travel.

(Disclaimer: I have no commercial or personal interest in any of the places mentioned. I did, however, work as an apprentice winemaker at Heritage Estate for a few months in 2011-2012, under the previous owners.)

This was originally written for inclusion in JancisRobinson.com’s summer 2019 writing competition, but was not selected. I am therefore republishing it here.

UPDATES:
5th January 2020: added a new restaurant (Hanasuka), and a bit more detail about Bents Road Wines and Pyramids Road Wines.